What does equal population mean and what does the different widths indicate?

Are the widths just the original area? Because why then introduce the “equal population” information?

I’m sorry if I’m being a bit thick, but I really don’t get it.

IDK why you’re getting downvoted, a large cargo ship can emit the same amount of co2 as 50 million cars https://maritimepage.com/cargo-ship-co2-emissions/

Perhaps the people downvoting you are the same kind of people without a sense of proportion, who think that turning off an LED light bulb saves the environment.

It could also be that you don’t provide a solution. So here it goes: want to cut co2? Buy locally produced goods. If you live in the northern hemisphere strawberries aren’t in season in January, and it’s a good chance that neither are tomatoes or avocado.

It’s spelled “gringe”

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I don’t care about the rating on other people’s content. On my own I only care so far as to use it as a guideline for whether I actually was interesting.

On reddit I was a trolling karma whore, but here? Here I’m much more about engaging with people and getting 3 upvotes tells me that I gave the community something meaningful.

That’s when you turn it around and ask her about how to deal with some social situation. Oh nvm, chatgpt gave me a great idea

How did you arrive at a 1300B MTU for your openvpn server?

1460B is the MSS for TCP over IPv4 over Ethernet (which has a standard MTU of 1518B) but I can’t figure out the 1300B.

Maybe AirVPN is fragmenting your packets to fit the 1300B, and when the AirVPN server doesn’t bother you get the message too error. Maybe a limitation on individual servers, which is why it sometimes works.

“Clear to Send” and “Packet Ready” lines coordinate direct neighbor-to-neighbor transmission,

So you’d want to dedicate two pairs to this? As in half the wires? For something that is already dealt with by doing full duplex?

Each host only talks to it’s upstream neighbor.

As in another host? So it’s p2p? How does it scale?

TBH your idea sounds like a mixup of rs232 and token ring.

I really don’t want to stifle innovation, perhaps you could draw it up? I really don’t get the logical-ring stuff

I’ve tried talking the missus into guineafowl, to combat rats, but that’s not happening, they’re too scary looking.

We’ve considered turkeys, but I seem to remember that Mike Rowe, on Discovery Channel’s “Dirty Jobs” had to “milk” the rooster and while I’m down with a lot of stuff, I’m not giving a bird a reach-around!

That would fall into the first category… Also, wtf? How can the same SSN be issued twice?!? It’s a frigging serial number, not a condom at a whore house.

Why? Because the system itself is arcane and could be done smarter? Or because the government has no business being able to distinguish between people with the same name? I need to understand this before going into a discussion with you.

Ideology? GTFO with that communism libtard! /s

It’s not a matter of whether your meter can do 240V, can you do 240V? Because that can be the consequence of slipping with the probe.

Sorry, I don’t mean to come off all aggressive. I just want to make sure that you don’t hurt yourself because I wasn’t very clear in my communication.

Didn’t really understand, can you explain it a bit more? Sorry 😅 About your warning is it dangerous to measure a 230V current with my multimeter (with precautions, gloves mainly)

Depending on the meter and your approach it can be either safe or lethal. The more I think about it, the more I’d recommend that you just don’t do it at all. Working on 240V installations under voltage, that is something we teach electricians to do safely. Besides the training it involves some special and rather pricey equipment.

I cannot stress this enough, if you mess up, you will hurt yourself with enough severity that the can easily be fatal. If you don’t know what you’re doing, messing up will be exponentially more likely.

Desolder the transistor, does the rest of the board light up? If so replace the transistor. Otherwise, get trained assistance on person or replace the UPS. I’m all for learning electronics, but not on a live UPS.

1. Almost there is definitely a problem. It was working fine, but sometimes it would just not go to batteries and stuck in a fault with continuous beep. After that, I let it for 2 weeks, the batteries were 5V, but I tried to charge them and for now they went to 12.6V stable (as normal…), but even with that it does the problem described and does not works as before

That does sound like some part of the controller electronics has been dieing for a while, and has now finally keeled over.

3. I’ve tested the resistors, all proper to their written value, and relays, proper resistance too (85 ohms for one (just on the brown power plant cable), and 260 for the others)

You wrote originally, that you tested what you could with desoldering anything. Measuring resistance in circuit always renders a murky result.

The brown wire is likely what is known as phase or live. Blue will be neutral. But measuring resistance on the input only tells you how much current will flow in the present state of relays.

What could help you come closer to an answer is following the first law of troubleshooting “thou shalt check voltages”. With a device that operates two live rails this will not be both easy and safe at the same time, so don’t rush it. I suggest you figure out what voltages to measure, then solder wires to the relevant nodes. Terminate the wires in a terminal block, where you’re protected from touching the screw. Assemble the device as best you can with all the wires coming out, and then power it on, get your voltages and deduce from that.

Whatever you do, do not poke about a live UPS circuit with your multimeter probes directly.

My initial working theory would be that the transistor switching the fan is dead and I would be looking closely in that area. If that transistor has failed closed and is shorting the controller electronics VCC rail, that would explain a lot. Maybe I’d go so far as to test it without checking voltages (gasp!)

If you just desoldered the transistor and powered the UPS back on, that could give you a UPS with functioning display and an idea of what to replace.

Will try to find others batteries to try, but normally it charges batteries by lighting up the display properly + the fan does not start. And here the UPS is not connect to any AC power, only the batteries were plugged

If 12.6V is normal for your batteries, then there’s no reason to troubleshoot that route any further. 12.6 is little low for lead acid, but if it’s a different chemistry. Anyway keeping extra batteries is always a good idea.

1. Has it at anytime worked like you describe?
2. If it stopped working, what happened?
3. What have you tested, how, and with what results?

12.6V is low if it’s 12V lead acid. Could be that the UPS is just charging the batteries and attempts cooling them meanwhile.

Besides what everyone else has said about screening, I’d suspect the astronauts are pretty cut off from the world.

If ground control can control all communication, what’s to stop them from censoring?

Maybe you could arrange trips? Like a cruise where you meet up in the UK, piss on Thatcher’s grave, figure out where Bin Laden was dropped off in the ocean and empty the ships septic tanks there before proceeding to Mar-a-lago… Or whatever golf course Eric sticks the old man in to qualify it for tax exemption.

Which cars should we get? There’s basically two manufacturers marketed in Denmark: Ford and Tesla. For reasons I fail to understand Ford is actually selling OK here, but Tesla … let me put it this way, last week a major news site in Denmark ran a story about how people wanted EVs but not Teslas or Chinese cars.

Please don’t ruin Keanu Reeves and Nick Offerman