Light flashes and fans move for a fraction of the second but isn’t that normal? I always do that when I want to quickly discharge caps and swap some components without worrying about shorting something.
Wow amazing guide. I’ll try testing with a multimeter for now but that PSU tester looks very handy. Maybe I’ll buy one someday.
I always thought that PSU testers were way more expensive but it’s good to know you can buy them relatively cheap. Honestly I’m curious if such a tester would detect anything. Currently the PSU works just fine under heavy load (CPU + GPU stress test). It only happens when I turn off the PC or put it to sleep so low or little to none power draw.
I haven’t seen any bad caps on the GPU or motherboard so I’ll see on the PSU (obviously with caution).
With GPU it’s an easy swap so I once exchanged GPUs with my friend to see if GPU is causing crashes (it was RAM btw) but with PSU I feel it’s a lot of work to unplug everything so I don’t want to bother them too much. I ordered an MSI 800W PSU. I have two weeks to return it if I want but your idea of having a spare is a good one.
True, usually when you work with high voltage you make sure that everything is unplugged and safe. It’s common sense and that’s why even though you should call an electrician to change the light bulb nobody will tell you to not do it yourself. PSU is not that simple though. Capacitors can still hold a charge. Unless you got trained for working with high voltage you definitely shouldn’t tinker with the PSU.
I was more worried about frying the motherboard but I guess it’s not entirely impossible to blow up the PSU…
Honestly that’s wild. In one laptop I have there is a dedicated barrel charging port but there’s also USB-C so I thought maybe I can charge it via USB too but nope, no power is being transferred, literally 0 amps. Meanwhile on PC if you buy an active USB hub it will power your computer lol. I feel like USB on PC should only output power. It wouldn’t be even expensive to make it that way.
Just out of curiosity is your motherboard higher or lower end?
I don’t have any hubs. The only thing I bought recently was 4x SATA to PCI card. But it worked ok for quite a while so this shouldn’t be the culprit?
In that weird can’t power on PC state or it doesn’t matter?
I might try to disassemble PSU at some point to check since I don’t see any on GPU or Motherboard.
(Also I know it can be dangerous but I know my way around high voltage from previous work so I should be fine)
I thought about it but idk if it’d be safe to remove 24 pin while plugged in. I can’t disconnect it though as after unplugging it works just fine.
The question is which one on which component :P
I have some very old no name PSU but it’s like 250W. Now GPU can draw this much power alone so my best bet would be buying new. With the option to return it might be worth a shot. Thanks!
Well, that depends on definition. But the joke is why on earth would you want to write types on your shopping list? Like this:
Etc.
I like my headphones not to be e-waste after 2-3 years when batteries die
I started appreciate it after I got phone with only USB-C. Now I swear I won’t buy a phone without it. So basically I can choose between Asus ROG phone or Sony Xperia. I don’t think any other flagship still includes jack.
Glad someone noticed